skirts

Spaniel Seersucker Skirt

McCalls 7606 Wrap Skirt

I saw this fabric with little brown dogs on it at my local fabric store, Five Eighth Seams, and I immediately bought a couple yards knowing it was destined to be a new skirt in my closet. I love how crisp and cool the seersucker feels, and it was easy to make too!

I sewed this skirt up using McCall’s 7606 with a few changes. I shortened the entire skirt so it would be calf length instead of maxi length. Also, I incorporated the ruffle at the top into the waistband, so it wouldn’t flap around so much. I used a button closure on the inside top right and a hook and bar closure at the top left, just before the ruffle begins. At the outside edge of the ruffle, I used a small snap. I guess you could say there is no chance of a wardrobe malfunction in this skirt! These closures are way more secure than the ties like the pattern suggests, and I like the security and the sleek look without the bow. The fabric was a little transparent, so I interlined the skirt with white cotton batiste from my stash, and it is the perfect opacity and weight for the skirt.

McCalls 7606 Wrap Skirt

Before I gathered the ruffle, I hemmed it using a narrow roll hem foot. This attachment takes some getting used to, and I have butchered the beginning of many, many hems by unknowingly using this attachment incorrectly until I finally watched this video about using my specific Bernina foot. Though, I am assuming since all of the roll hem feet look the same, this video could be useful if you have another brand of sewing machine. The video instructs to straight stitch the area to be hemmed for a few stitches and then use the long thread tails to position the fabric correctly into the foot before starting to hem. Now, I get perfect hems every time!

Instead of cutting out the ruffle the length the pattern suggests and gathering it, I cut longer lengths of fabric, pieced it together in one long strip, and then I used a gathering foot. It is important to have a little extra length of fabric to work when using a gathering foot because it may gather the fabric a little tighter than the way the pattern was designed. Also, you have less control in easing out the fullness if the gathers are too tight. For this skirt, the finished ruffle is about half the length of the original length of fabric. I always like to practice with a scrap piece of the fabric I am working on to make sure the foot is gathering the amount that I want it to. I used a 10 inch long piece of scrap seersucker fabric and made adjustments until my finished ruffle was only 5 inches. Fiddling with the machine settings doesn’t take too long, and I prefer it to pulling basting threads because the gathering foot evenly spaces the gathers for me. After I sewed on the ruffle, I cut off the excess amount of fabric that I had gathered so it was the appropriate length. I also topstitched the bottom of the skirt to hold the seam allowance of the ruffle and skirt bottom in place. I think the topstitching gives the skirt a ready-to-wear look.

McCalls 7606 Wrap Skirt seersucker

Mccalls 7606 seersucker wrap skirt

I paired this skirt with the Nettie Bodysuit I made by Closet Case Patterns. Modifications to the original bodysuit pattern are discussed in this post.

This project ended up coming together quickly with the help of my roll hem and gathering presser feet. Do you have any favorite presser feet or sewing machine attachments that help you save time? Let me know in the comments below.

McCalls 7606 Wrap Skirt Seersucker

Nettie Bodysuit and Burda Maxi Skirt

 

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

Since it is currently Me Made May 2017, I have a brand new outfit to share! It’s made up of a Closet Case Nettie Bodysuit with a few hacks and a maxi skirt made with a Burda pattern.

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

The skirt is made with the “Train Maxi Skirt 09/2014 #105” by Burda. The only modification was to cut the train off at the end. It was so beautiful, but not practical at all. This skirt pattern was drafted in a very interesting way, and it is unlike any skirt I’ve ever seen. There are two very long front darts that extend down to the knee, and there are no side seams. There are only the middle back and side back seams. From the front, the skirt looks like a maxi with a straight silhouette, but the back is very voluminous. I used a floral rayon challis from fabric.com that I purchased last year. It’s important to choose a lightweight drapey fabric for this skirt since there are no side seams, and the fabric has to flow over the hips.

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

For the neckline of the bodysuit, I used this tutorial posted by Heather Lou on the Closet Case blog to hack the nettie into an off the shoulder bodysuit. Instead of using a knit band at the neckline like Heather Lou did, I stitched 1/4 inch elastic to the wrong side of the neckline edge with a zig-zag stitch without stretching the elastic or the fabric. Then, I folded the elastic under to the wrong side and used a wide cover stitch stitching through all thicknesses. If you don’t have a coverstitch machine, you can use a wide zig-zag stitch for that part too.

To make the ruffles for the sleeves,  I drafted ruffles that resemble 3/4 of a circle in two different lengths for each sleeve. The ruffles are sewn on with a zig-zag stitch just above the sleeve hem.

 

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

The fabric for the bodysuit is the white kaufman laguna stretch jersey. It is a spandex cotton blend and has great recovery. I have used this jersey in many colorways, and it is my favorite jersey to work with. It is so soft yet substantial, and it is easy to sew with. The white was a tad sheer, but the other colors/ colorways I have used before have not been. To account for the sheerness, I made the nettie two sizes bigger, and this seemed to help.

 

Have you done any pattern hacks lately? I’d love to know!