closet case patterns

Nettie Bodysuit and Burda Maxi Skirt

 

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

Since it is currently Me Made May 2017, I have a brand new outfit to share! It’s made up of a Closet Case Nettie Bodysuit with a few hacks and a maxi skirt made with a Burda pattern.

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

The skirt is made with the “Train Maxi Skirt 09/2014 #105” by Burda. The only modification was to cut the train off at the end. It was so beautiful, but not practical at all. This skirt pattern was drafted in a very interesting way, and it is unlike any skirt I’ve ever seen. There are two very long front darts that extend down to the knee, and there are no side seams. There are only the middle back and side back seams. From the front, the skirt looks like a maxi with a straight silhouette, but the back is very voluminous. I used a floral rayon challis from fabric.com that I purchased last year. It’s important to choose a lightweight drapey fabric for this skirt since there are no side seams, and the fabric has to flow over the hips.

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

For the neckline of the bodysuit, I used this tutorial posted by Heather Lou on the Closet Case blog to hack the nettie into an off the shoulder bodysuit. Instead of using a knit band at the neckline like Heather Lou did, I stitched 1/4 inch elastic to the wrong side of the neckline edge with a zig-zag stitch without stretching the elastic or the fabric. Then, I folded the elastic under to the wrong side and used a wide cover stitch stitching through all thicknesses. If you don’t have a coverstitch machine, you can use a wide zig-zag stitch for that part too.

To make the ruffles for the sleeves,  I drafted ruffles that resemble 3/4 of a circle in two different lengths for each sleeve. The ruffles are sewn on with a zig-zag stitch just above the sleeve hem.

 

nettie off the shoulder bodysuit and burda maxi

The fabric for the bodysuit is the white kaufman laguna stretch jersey. It is a spandex cotton blend and has great recovery. I have used this jersey in many colorways, and it is my favorite jersey to work with. It is so soft yet substantial, and it is easy to sew with. The white was a tad sheer, but the other colors/ colorways I have used before have not been. To account for the sheerness, I made the nettie two sizes bigger, and this seemed to help.

 

Have you done any pattern hacks lately? I’d love to know!

 

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Carolyn Pajamas by Closet Case Files

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These are the warmest, softest pajamas I own. And since they have a collar, I still feel decent enough to answer the door when the doorbell rings unexpectedly.

The “Carolyn Pajamas” pajama pattern is from Closet Case Files. I cut my regular size based on my measurements and made no alterations to the pattern. I used lilac cotton flannel by Robert Kaufman from fabric.com with store-bought white piping. The fabric is thick; I feel like I’m wearing a flannel blanket. Also, I have washed the pjs a couple times now with no signs of pilling!

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Usually, it is easier to install homemade piping because the store bought variety does not have a 5/8″ seam allowance. I figured out a little hack that makes pre-packaged piping install much easier by using the blind hem foot. Line up your fabric as usual on the 5/8″ line on the throat plate, place the piping under the blind hem foot, and the foot will automatically shift the piping into the correct position. It worked great when I was sewing the piping around curves as well. Bernina does make a piping foot (number 38) that is better suited for this purpose, but the blind hem foot is fine for the occasional piping project.

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The hand-embroidered monogram was a nice touch that ended up taking as much time to do as the set of pajamas themselves! On the plus side, the monogram is significantly softer than machine embroidery. I traced out a design onto the fabric before cutting using a water-soluble marking pen. I used a padded satin stitch to get the 3D effect on the whole design, and I used an awl to poke holes for the eyelets before embroidering them. Here is a closeup before the pocket was cut out.  Sorry about the stray dog hair.

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This was another sewing success thanks to Closet Case Files! I want to make at least one more set in flannel so I can stay extra cozy this winter, and maybe one light weight cotton poplin or cotton lawn set with shorts in the spring.

One last shot of Tex, the dog-hair-generator, and me modeling our new flannel attire. I made his jacket too.

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Glam Kelly Anorak

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I love this pattern! I felt like I had struck gold when I finished this jacket, mostly because Heather Lou from Closet Case Files makes such great patterns. The Kelly Anorak is beautifully drafted with great instructions, and my finished garment fits better than anything I could buy ready-made.

I had to shorten the front and back pieces at the waist by 1/2 in because I’m 5’5″ and this pattern is intended for some one slightly taller. Also, I lowered the drawstring placement by about 3/4 in.

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Don’t look too close, because the drawstring casing on the right side doesn’t perfectly line up with the left when the jacket is zipped, and I didn’t notice until I was installing the hardware. I meticulously and painstakingly marked and double checked the symmetry of the right and left sides before installing the zipper and everything was perfect! However, I think the fabric shifted since I can’t use my walking foot with zippers. I highly recommend hand-basting the zipper before machine sewing so you can ensure the left and right yoke seams, drawstring casing, and pockets stay perfectly aligned!!

I used Robert Kaufman Ventana Twill fabric from fabric.com. When it came in the mail, I worried the fabric wasnt heavy enough. The fabric is approximately 7-8 oz, but now I don’t know if I would sew this jacket with anything thicker. The front facings and zipper flap are all interfaced and heavier fabric might be too bulky (even when grading seams). Also, the armholes are cut high (which I love), but they might be too tight with thick twill or denim. The shiny gold hardware and two-way riri zipper was from pacifictrimming.com.

I already have some plans for my next Kelly and can’t wait to get started! Stay tuned!

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